![]() ![]() this is an easy-to-miss step, especially under the pressure of performing for the camera. Cut a sample shelf using the demonstrated method with the Left side marked inward 3″ from the edge and the Right side marked inward 2″ from the edge to see the result if these words are confusing. Recommend to mark the shelf for the slots with the bottom facing up, then transfer them to the top, and the shelf cuts made with the bottom down for the slots to locate AND register correctly. IF the slots are equi-distant from the center, AND the shelf is 3/4″ thick George’s method will work. (The shelf was flipped over at 7:36 and the slots were close enough to being equidistant to fit.) The shelf in the video must be installed bottom-up to precisely match the locations of the slots. This keeps the registration distance correct, however the left and right slots only fit when the top of the shelf is installed down. George marked the top of the shelf with left and right locations for the slots previously cut in the side and cut the shelf slots with the bottom of the shelf down. George-Woodworkers Guild of America ReplyĬonfused. When the shelf and side were put together the marks were still on the top of the shelf. The marks were made on the top of the shelf so the joiner could register off the bottom. RE: above comment- I’m not talking bottom and top, I mean left and right. together and flipped it over, now those marks were on the opposite sides of the way you marked them. ![]() You made registration marks on the shelf. Independent reviewers demonstrated that the biscuit-type joint was the weakest with the tongue-and-groove joint, my personal preference, being the strongest. When everything seems perfect, good alignment of the final joint is still difficult. Even so, the clamps tend to get in the way of the BC. You would need one of those deep throat clamps. Most clamps will not have the reach to accomplish this. Otherwise, the blade will tend to shove the workpiece away and laterally. The piece being cut needs to be clamped to the workbench within reach of the BC. In order to make accurate cuts, the BC needs to be flat on the workbench, at least 4-5 inches from the edge and is best stabilized with 2 hands. That provides just a bit of wiggle room so that you have some adjustment and it also allows for some variability in biscuit sizing. The slot is generally about 1/16″ deeper than half of the width of the biscuit. The depth of cut can be varied depending on the size of biscuit that is used. Is the depth of cut always the same, if so how deep is the slot? Reply You can always use the fence if you prefer, I just find it to be quicker and easier to use the base of the biscuit joiner as a reference. For the 1/2″ material, I would either prop the plywood on a spacer to bring it to a better height to locate the biscuit, or I would use the fence. It will still give you the same alignment benefit whether or not it is centered. ![]() For the 1″ material, I would still set the biscuit joiner on its base and not worry about centering the biscuit. So, I get it that the tool places the blade 3/8″ upward from plate edge which places the biscuit in the center of 3/4″ plywood, but what if the shelf material was 1″ or 1/2″ plywood? How would you get buiscuit in the center of the shelf piece? I also have a similar looking Porter Cable joiner. ![]() I learned the hard way that if you just start plunging and then push the blade in, it will have a tendency to shift the cut and/or move the board. 2) Pull trigger and LET THE BLADE GET UP TO FULL SPEED. 1) Position and hold the biscuit joiner solidly against the edge or cleat. One additional tip that I learned from experience Experience : (what you get when you do not get what you want) Using the same Porter Cable biscuit joiner as in the video, it’s important to take the following steps when making each cut. I took up carpentry when I retired and sure can use this expert adviseĮxcellent video. Δ 14 Responses to “Using a Biscuit Joiner” Mail (required) (will not be published). ![]()
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